Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Beyond Prague

25 May - 28 May
North
West   Prague   East
South

We stayed in Prague for 5 nights but spent most of that time taking day trips outside of the city.
We toured a 660 year old castle, paddled in a sinking canoe on the Sazava River, hiked near the German border, and visited Rick Steves' 'must see city' - Cesky Krumlov.  This post is chalk-full of pictures - consider yourself warned!

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I love castles.


Karlstejn Castle started life in 1348 as a hide-away for the crown jewels and the treasury of the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV.  Run by an appointed burgrave, the castle was surrounded by a network of land-owning knight vassals, who provided defense for the castle.  - Lonely Planet

Karlstein single-handedly drove my interest to watch Game of Thrones.  - Devin



Petr and Devin looking super amped to tour the castle.




We did two tours of the castle; the first was general information and the second involved additional rooms, more detail, and fascinating history.  I wish I could remember any of it right now, but I'd need Devin's brain for that sort of information and he's at work.  From me, you get pictures!





I had to take this picture!  As we waited for our second tour to start, we were entertained by this little girl and her temper tantrum.  It appeared that she wanted to go into the castle alone but her parents felt that wasn't a solid idea.  She performed the classic 'lay-on-the-ground-and-go-limp-when-dad-tries-to-pick-you-up' move over and over again.  After about 15 minutes of this, we think she realized her defeat and sat on the stairs...  Devin's observation: Little people pout the same regardless of nationality.

Our tour guide's keys to the castle

Lunch, post tour.  I had the baked trout and the boys had different goulash.



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After the castle, Petr took us to the summer camp he used to work at.  Petr is good friends with the man who owns said camp and continues to spend time out there.  It's located near Sazava, east of Prague, on the Sazava River, and when we got there they were beginning to prep for summer campers.


Petr, Devin and I decided to go out in canoes and see a bit of the river.  When I first saw the canoes we'd be using I was a bit hesitant, to say the least.  These were old, and well-used canoes, but Petr had faith, so we went for it.  Devin and I would share the one less likely to leak, and Petr would go solo in the other.  By the time we got out to the middle of the river Devin and I had about six inches of water sloshing around our boat.  I thought this was hilarious and couldn't stop laughing.  The way I saw it, we had two possible outcomes to our predicament: we continue to sink and end up in the river, or the sloshing water tips us and we end up in the river.  Either way, I was convinced we were getting wet...
But we didn't.  We made it to shore a bit downstream, dumped the water, traded canoes with Petr, and headed back.  The second canoe leaked as well, but not as badly.  Needless to say we didn't see much of the river, but it was nice to be out floating in the water - I miss being in a canoe.  It was just a funny experience!



Muddy boys washing off in the trough/sink.




We stayed late into the night, sitting around the fire, listening to Petr's friends sing and play guitar, and talking about world travel.  They were a great group of people - very welcoming and generous - and we had a blast!  I hope we're able to visit again...

Also, Skoda Roomsters can drive over anything!  (Petr's car.)

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Labe River (Czech) = Elbe River (German)

On Sunday a group of 7 of us headed north for some hiking at the 'Sandstone Rocks of Labe.'

On the road - I love that there are just random castles everywhere!  Europe is awesome.


The Sandstone Rocks of Labe Protected Landscape Region, is one of Bohemia’s characteristic ‘rock 
towns’ and occupies a 5km by 35km strip along the [German] border.  Called ‘Czech Switzerland’ by Czechs and ‘Saxon Switzerland’ by Germans, the meadows and chalets do look vaguely Swiss, but the steep gorges and dramatic sandstone formations are anything but.  [Czech Switzerland National Park] offers  leisurely walking through spectacular, natural landscapes, plus relaxed boat rides that negotiate the deep gorge of the Kamenice River.  - Lonely Planet

Sandstone.

Trail marker.

Me.

(high/tall) Jan and (Hungarian) Peter on the left.


This particular hike is very busy, and the reason for it's popularity is Pravcicka brana, a natural sandstone arch which is Europe's highest at 30m.  Also popular is the Falcon's Nest chateau, situated next to the arch for great views and cold beer!  (I swear, you can get a beer anywhere in Czech Republic!)

(high) Jan, (Hungarian) Peter, Klara, (Jan), (sm) Petr, Devin, Emily

Devin had his first Budvar at the chateau.





The hike eventually leads back to town before you dip down into a canyon.





The last section of the hike, along the river, was wonderful!  It was beautifully peaceful, and to take the boat and float the last bit was just lovely.  I wish all hikes could end the same way!



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~Cesky Krumlov~



Cesky Krumlov is in southern Bohemia and is considered one of Czech Republic's prettiest towns.  That being said, it's also a popular tourist destination, and can get quite crowded.  We visited on a rainy Monday, and fortunately didn't have to battle too many tour groups.  (But we also stayed away from the main sites, opting for views at a distance, a coffee house, a vegetarian (!) lunch spot, and a pub to escape the rain.

The town's original Gothic fortress was rebuilt as an imposing Renaissance chateau in the 16th century. Since the 18th century the town's appearance is largely unchanged and careful renovation and restoration has replaced the architectural neglect of the communist era.  In 1992, Cesky Krumlov was granted Unesco World Heritage status.  - Lonely Planet

Cesky Krumlov Castle with the Round Tower and kayakers on the Valtava River behind me.






 We found a vegetarian restaurant for lunch - Laibon!  
I didn't know what to order, so we shared, and it was wonderful!

We were caught in a nasty rain storm, so we didn't spend as much time walking around as we did sitting at a pub drinking beer and FaceTiming with family.

Of course I found some hot chocolate to try - this was actual hot chocolate - no powdered stuff here.

You can throw trash away.  You can't: sing? have a dog? break pillars? have wands? (probably no picking flowers, but wands are more fun) no bikes.  I like signs in other countries. 

Hello!

On the train back to Prague - it was a good day! 


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We had an amazing time in and around Prague!  
Bohemia was fantastic but it was time to venture over to Moravia to see the rest of our friends...

 


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