Lhasa I Love You

From my journal, 16 September, 2010:

On September 10th we boarded a 33hr train ride from Xi’an to Lhasa, Tibet. Originally we had ‘hard seats’ but about 5 minutes into the ride Devin got up and an hour later came back and told me he’d upgraded our seats to ‘hard sleeper.’ The seats would have been miserable for 33 hours and I’m so happy he got us into sleepers. The family that shared our cabin was great; a mother and father taking their 19 yr old son to college in Lhasa. The son spoke a little English, and I remember a little Chinese, so we had an entertaining time trying to communicate. They shared their food and gave us train tips, including when the hot water was hot enough [safe enough] to make our noodle bowls. Devin and I spent most of our time reading. Me: The Girl Who Played with Fire, Devin: The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. We did play one game of cribbage; Devin won by a single peg. We tried to explain the game to Mama and I think she figured out the basic rules while watching us play.

When we arrived in Lhasa the most wonderful person was there to collect us: T. Lhamo, a 20 yr old woman from Eastern Tibet. (I was nervous about who our guide would be – I hoped we wouldn’t have a Chinese guide.) She was/is wonderful! That first night she left us at our hotel to relax and rest. Ha! I stayed up until 4:45AM finishing my book. Oops.

On Sunday we spent some time in the morning figuring out our trip out of Tibet – ended up with a 1st class flight from Lhasa to Shangri-La in Yunnan province. (We’re still not sure how that happened.) After booking our flight Devin, Lhamo (what her friends call her) and I went into the Tibetan part of town – Barkhor – and walked around the Jokhang Temple. This temple is the center of Tibet (spiritually, at least.) Lhamo talked about how people will prostrate [to move from a standing position to a kneeling or laying position and back while praying] from their homes in other parts of Tibet to this temple. Her mother has done it twice; the first time it took her 6 months, the second time took her 4 months! Unreal. In the evening Lhamo went to take care of some business and Devin and I found ourselves wandering around the temple again – this time to take pictures. I’m bad at taking pictures of people, so we put on the zoom lens and snipered from a distance. I just feel funny taking pictures of people close up, even when I ask and they say “yes.” We had fun just sitting around and watching this holy world go by.

Our 2nd full day in Lhasa was busy. We met Lhamo in front of the Potala Palace before heading in to tour the sections that are open to the public. The Dali Lama used to live here, but in 1959, when China (Chinese Communist Party – CCP) “liberated” Tibet, the 14th (and current) Dali Lama fled to India along with about 100,000 Tibetans. Now, 62 monks are allowed to reside in the palace, as well as many government officials – Chinese government officials. Also, since the 2008 “riots” prior to the Beijing Olympics, monks in Lhasa are not allowed to wear their robes. They are arrested if they do. (I believe the date of the protests was the anniversary of Tibet’s “liberation.”) Devin and I talked about the control the CCP has over the people of Tibet, and of China for that matter. Often, we hear Americans [complain] about our government, we are guilty of it too, and America is in no way without fault, but we’ve got it pretty good compared with people here. In Lhasa, a place where religion and tradition is so very important, monks can’t wear their robes, no one is allowed to talk about the current Dali Lama, his picture is not allowed to hang anywhere, boys can’t wear their hair long...arrest is the punishment of these offences. And China, in general, is so censored. I didn’t realize it when I was here as a student, because at that time all I used to communicate was my hotmail account. Now, as far as the internet goes, we can’t access our blog, our picasa site, or facebook – there are many other prohibited sites, but these are what we’ve been using to stay in touch.

Anyway, it’s sad to know that Tibet is changing, and probably not for the better. Devin asked Lhamo about it and she said that the people don’t like change, but “what can they do?” Chinese police and military are everywhere, especially near the Jokhang Temple and the square because that is where the protest of 2008 took place. It’s almost funny to see Chinese soldiers with big guns marching around while people come from hundreds of miles to pray. Hmmmmm...

Okay. The Potala Palace was amazing and Lhamo had tons of interesting information about it. I think Buddhism is fascinating and I’d really like to learn more about it. I especially like how the Past, Present, and Future gods are so important. I also like the Buddha of Compassion, with 1,000 arms and heads in order to see and help all people.

After the palace, we had lunch – all three of us for Y18 [$3] – at a place Lhamo suggested with great noodle soup. After lunch we went to the Sera Monastery and Lhamo gave us a tour. I think the most interesting part about this area is its location. It’s built on the front side of a small mountain, while on the back side is where dead people are brought to be cut up and fed to eagles – no kidding! Devin and I were amazed by this and it must have shown on our faces because Lhamo asked if we’d never heard of it before. We had not. She said that in Tibet, people are not buried like they are “in the West.” In Tibet, after a person dies, their body is at home for a few days while the family members pray for that person. Then, based on a good day of the lunar calendar, the family will take the body to this mountain (or one closer to their home) and a monk skilled in the practice will cut the body up in order for the eagles to eat it. Thus, the circle of life continues. Pretty interesting.

That evening we treated Lhamo to dinner and it was good to sit and talk to her. We found out that when she was nine years old she “skipped” the border to Nepal and then into India so she could learn English. She said it’s very hard for Tibetans to get passports, and the Chinese government really regulates where they go. She lived in India for three years and on her way back home, she and a few others were caught at the third of four checkpoints and she had to spend two months in prison. She was only 12. I just cannot believe the life she has already had. Now, she studies in the winter and gives tours in the summer to practice her English.

During our last day in Tibet we walked around the Tibetan part of the city, bought some souvenirs for people, had dinner, and then said goodbye to our cute-as-can-be guide. I still miss her. It was so nice to have someone along who could speak the language and answer our questions.

I should comment on the guest house that we stayed at while in Lhasa. It is called the Norling Family Guest House and is run by a couple who are both doctors and have an office in the same building. They were very nice and it was a great place to stay. Plus, they poured glass after glass of Tibetan sweet tea – I love that drink!

We flew out of Lhasa on 15 September using our first class tickets. When we bought them we were told that all the economy seats were taken, but once on the plane we saw lots of regular seats open. Oh China…